Interesting or Useful Books

I don't know how many others in the dog world are big readers, but I am a voracious reader myself. In addition to novels I read for entertainment and journals and texts I read for work, I think that I have read over 40 dog related books in the last year. So I thought that I would list a few of my favorites here.  They are divided by topic. (I will try to update this list and the related reviews over time as I come across more good books).

BREED SPECIFIC

The Standard Schnauzer Source Books 1-5.  These books are published by the Standard Schnauzer Club of American and available through their publications page.  The contain photographs of past champions, lists of accomplishments and pedigrees for many of the great dogs in our breed's history. They also include updates on things relevant to the development and progress of the breed in other countries. I have found them very helpful learning resources.

CONFORMATION

The Absolute Beginners Guide to Showing Your Dog by Cheryl Smith.  I could not have survived without this book! It is an excellent overview of what dog show are about, explaining what happens before, after and during the shows from how to be a spectator to the skills you need to do it yourself, the required paperwork and set up, to what the judge is doing and why. I highly recommend this book for anyone new to the sport.

Raising a Champion: A beginner's guide to showing dogs by Carole Richards. This book is also "required reading" for first time show dog owners. While the book above is a good overview to help you understand the general concepts, this book is a "how to" manual you can not live without. The authors say that the idea for this book came about from all the puppy people they have worked with over the years who wished for an owners manual.  So one day they finally decide to sit down and write one. Well, I think that they did an excellent job. They teach you everything from setting a goal, purchasing required equipment and basic puppy care to training skills, show craft, entering events and building points. One of the things I like best is the use of photographs to illustrate the effect of both correct and incorrect use of skills (for example, stacking) in the same dog. I found it very helpful to my understanding of WHY we are meant to do things in a particular way (and why NOT to do them in other ways). I hope you will find it as helpful as I did.

Loose Lead: The Life and Dog-Training Secrets of Texas Legend Adelene Pardo  by Nancy Francis.  This book is both instructional and biographical.  Its is by far the funnies book I have read in years.  I laughed so hard the first night I was reading it that my husband wanted in on the joke and from that point on I had to read the book aloud. I love that this very well known and respected woman demonstrates such grace and self confidence that she has learned through the years to laugh at herself and doesn't mind allowing us to join her. It makes me want to say: "when I grow old I too shall wear purple!"

An Eye For a Dog: Illustrated guide to judging purebred dogs by Robert W. Cole.  This book is just what the title implies, an educational tool for learning about breed type, body structure and movement. The illustrator is clearly skilled and has the ability to visually depict subtle differences in form and structure in a way that helps the reader learn to look for these effects in his/her real life subjects. The book is intended for breeders and judges but is also useful for new people interested in learning about the sport of dogs if they are also ready to move beyond the mechanics of the event to better understand what's really happening and why.

OBEDIENCE

The Canine Good Citizen: Every dog can be one, 2nd edition by Jack and Wendy Volhard.  This is a new book from the AKC. It briefly describes the creation and development of the AKC's new Canine Good Citizen Program.  It also provides a list of the required skills and instructions on how to teach your dog to achieve them. I was already enrolled in a CGC class when I read this book but I found it helpful to have a good overview of the training objectives and the reasons for them. Though I don't think that I would have been able to use the book to replace the course.

Success is in the Proofing: A Guide for Creative and Effective Training by Debbie Quigley and Judy Ramsey. This nice little book which is designed for people in obedience to take with them to events or to be handy for training. Its spiral bound with a laminated cover that makes it easy to use.  The authors describe techniques similar to the ones they teach in their classes and seminars for proofing skills as your dog learns them. The focus primarily on the skills that are used for formal obedience but the principles could apply to any training situation.

The Rally Course Book: A guide to AKC Rally Courses by Janice Dearth.  This is a very well designed book with a laminated cover and spiral binding.  It describes the development of rally course and provides several examples. However, this is not a good book for a beginning who is primarily interested in learning about the sport and the various signs and procedures. You'll need a different book for that.

AGILITY

Success is in the Shaping: The education of an unlikely champion by Susan Garrett.  This book is based on a collection of articles Ms. Garrett has previously posted about her own experiences in training a boarder collie puppy who went on to be one of the most successful champions in the history of agility. I don't agree with her premise that this dog was an "unlikely" champion.  He comes from amazing stock with multiple record holding family members.  However, it is a very entertaining book, funny and well written.  It conveyed a sense of hope to me for my own boy and helped me to laugh at my own follies as the author was clearly able to do for her own.  I think its well worth reading and am glad that the publisher allowed me to keep it when they mistakenly shipped this in place of another item I had originally ordered.

REPRODUCTION


Canine Reproduction and Whelping: A breeders guide by Myra Savant-Harris. This was a good basic primer written in understandable terms and covering a broad range of topics.  Although the author purposely chose to write the book using laymen's terms where possible instead of medical jargon, the book still feels well research and appears to be based on a reasonably up to date reading of the literature. This is the best basic breeding guide I have read.

Advanced Canine Reproduction and Puppy Care by Myra Savant-Harris. This is a fabulous book.  A friend and I were just discussing a couple of the topics raised in the first 4 chapters of this book. It is like the author read our minds. I am personally fascinated because the book touches on subjects that link my professional activities and my dog hobby. Though this may not be a book for everyone. Many of the suggestions coming out of the book are based on conjecture derived from the literature pertaining to reproduction in other species rather than on science specific to canines. However, the science to support these ideas is unlikely to be conducted if we don't start thinking about it and discussing among ourselves.

This author also has a book called Puppy Intensive Care. However, I haven't had the chance to read it yet and will not review it until the next update.

GENERAL INTEREST

The Dog's Mind: Understanding your dog's behavior by Bruce Fogle. This is a great book.  I believe that it is out of print now but you can still find used copies on Amazon from time to time. The book is a very well written and well researched volume that describes a scientific basis for understanding animal behavior (and dog behavior in particular). The author is a veterinarian and something of an authority on the subject. Some parts of the science are a little bit dated at this point as the book was written in the 1990's but only a scientist who works in this area or is very knowledgeable his/herself would notice those issues. The typical reader will find that this book is a priceless tool for making sense of what dogs do and why.

The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell.  Dr. McConnell is a well known academician and animal behavioralist.  This book was published for the consumption of the general public and as such is both informative and accessible to the typical reader. Like the Dog's Mind, this book give great insight into the relationships between dogs and humans.  However, it is not focused on the physiological explanation for that relationship so much as the behavioral cues we humans provide to our four legged companions and how our behavior impacts theirs. It is an excellent book and well worth your time to read.


Dog's I've Nosed by Jack Kenner.  This is a photo essay book with some incredibly artistic images of our four legged friends.

WHAT IS A TITLE, REALLY by Sandy Mowery

I found a copy of this on another website and thought that I would repost here in case some of you might be interested in reading it.  I know I find it very moving.

     "Not just a brag, not just a stepping stone to a higher title, not just an adjunct to competitive scores; a title is a tribute to the dog that bears it, a way to honor the dog, an ultimate memorial. It will remain in the record and in the memory, for about as long as anything in the world can remain. And though the dog herself doesn't know or care that her achievements have been noted, a title says many things in the world of humans, where such things count.  A title says your dog was intelligent, adaptable, and good-natured. It says that your dog  loved you enough to do the things that please you, however crazy they may have sometimes seemed."

     "In addition, a title says that you love your dog. That you loved to spend time with her because she was a good dog and that you believed in her enough to give her yet another chance when she (or you!) failed and in the end your faith was justified.  A title proves that your dog inspired you to that special relationship enjoyed by so few.  That in a world of disposable creatures, this dog with a title was greatly loved, and loved greatly in return."

     "And when that dear short life is over, the title remains as a memorial of the finest kind, the best you can give to a deserving friend. Volumes of praise in one small set of initials after a name.  An obedience (agility, flyball, herding, tracking, lure coursing, conformation) title is nothing less than the true love and respect, given and received and recorded permanently."

Snips and snails, and puppy dog tales

I have been reflecting a lot recently on the relationship between children and dogs. Dogs were a very important aspect of my own childhood, in part because my grandfather was a vet and there wasn't much I liked better than "helping" in the clinic on weekends and school holidays, and in part because my parents breed boxer's and my siblings and I were the official "puppy socialization" team.

Although not all working group breeds are good with children, in their native Germany, our own breed  is known as the kinderkeeper. The ability to shift from all around farm/guard duty to gentle affectionate playmate is a hallmark of both sexes. This doesn't mean that the temperament of our breed is "soft" rather it reflects the versatility of these intelligent and sensitive animals.

Our family made the decision to acquire our first standard when our son was less than a year old and just learning to walk. Naturally, there were some difficult moments teaching both boys how to respect and care for each other. Standard schnauzer puppies do not always realize their own strength, and for that matter, neither do little boys. However, having two rambunctious boys developing at about the same rate has provided endless hours of comic relief at our house and I just can't say enough about the companionship of a four legged friend for  all the middle of the night calls, tantrums and other mischief toddlers get into.

For us, having a dog has RELIEVED parenting stress, making it easier for us to meet the emotional needs of child and puppy alike.  However, this may not be true for many other families.  Puppies require a lot of work (especially standard schnauzer puppies), socialization, housebreaking, crate training, obedience, etc.

Although it makes me sad that many breeders will not place a puppy in a home with small children, I understand that their reluctance is based on bad experiences in the past with just such placements.

Please be honest with yourself and your prospective breeder, not just about whether this is the right breed for you but also whether or not this is the right time in your life to make this commitment. Dogs are not disposable (or interchangeable).  They are sentient beings with a personality and life all their own and they are such phenomenally loyal partners that they deserve no less than a lifetime commitment from us.

Health Certification update

I blogged about health certifications once last year and wont repeat myself here. However, there are some recent changes in the recommended health certifications for standard schnauzers as per the latest issue of the Pepper and Salt newsletter.

The SSCA has recently joined together with CHIC (Canine Health Information Center) which is a joint project between the AKC and OFA. CHIC will be a cross referenced public database to help breeders and owners easily locate health data for their breed. SSCA is participating in this project and encouraging members to obtain CHIC certification for all standard schnauzers (pets, breeding stock, performance dogs, etc).

CHIC certification requires the following tests, all completed after the age of two:

1) OFA Hip test
2) CERF test

and at least one of the following:

1) Thyroid test by approved OFA lab
2) Cardiac test read by boarded cardiologist and/or
3) blood sample to CHIC DNA repository

SSCA is also recommending re-testing for CERF and Thyroid after seven years of age for breeding stock.

As noted elsewhere, Kord passed his cardiac, petella luxation and eye exams at 12mths. He is registered with CERF and OFA for these tests and we will undertake the additional recommended tests when he attains the recommended age.

I personally believe that good health is one of the characteristics that sets standard schnauzers apart from all other dogs, making them desirable as both pets and performance animals. I am glad that our parent organization and the many concerned breeders in this fancy are all doing their part to ensure that good health continues to be a defining characteristic of our breed in the future!

Grooming

People familiar with our breed will already know but folks considering acquiring a standard schnauzer may not be aware of the grooming requirements. Standard schnauzers require a good deal of grooming whether they are kept in a pet or show coat. 

Dogs who are kept as pets may be clippered on the jacket with scissoring of the head piece and furnishings (this can be done by a professional groomer every 6-8 weeks depending on the growth rate of your dog's coat) but also require brushing at least twice a week (to prevent mats) and bathing once a week or every other week depending on their living arrangements (dogs who spend more time out of doors require more frequent routine grooming). Those who are experienced in grooming or just feeling adventuresome may wish to address grooming on their own and there are a variety of tools that you will find helpful. For a detailed list of some of my favorites, please see below.

Dogs who are involved in conformation must be kept in what is referred to as a show coat. Show coats are "hand stripped" using stripping knives and other implements which can generally only be purchased from a show grooming pet supply vendor or an online pet supply source such as Pet Edge (see below for suggestions).

I work with a handler who usually manages the more difficult grooming tasks for me. But when Kord finished his championship last fall, I got brave and decided to try it myself (my friends are still laugh :-)). I have fully stripped him one time (am in the second round now) and have since done coat maintenance and clipper/scissor work. I took a weekend seminar style grooming course and have been working with a professional for several months before trying this.  I would recommend that you do the same if you are trying to keep your dog in show coat without the assistance of a professional.

I believe hand stripping to be a labor intensive process regardless of coat type.  After the initial stripping process, the jacket must be raked often with multiple sizes of stripping knives (this removes loose undercoat) then stoned to remove loose outer coat). The length of time between full stripping varies. Some dogs have coats that roll easily and may only require full stripping infrequently. Others do not roll easily and may require stripping every 4-6 months. If the stripping goes to the skin it may take 6-8 weeks for the jacket to grow out adequately for the dog to be shown after intensive grooming. Obviously dogs with coats that roll easily can be shown more often because they don't require "time off" between groomings to allow the coat to grow back to an acceptable length.

When I stripped Kord myself, I found that it took me approximately 8-9 hours to complete the job. I did it over two days. I stripped the body of the jacket and most of the legs on the first day (some areas are sensitive and you may need to go slowly or take breaks). Then stripped the head and rest of the legs on the second day. I saved clipper and scissor work for the following weekend (Kord and I were both to tired to do the job properly after the stripping exercise). I also found that I had several blisters on my fingers when I finished and have since learned that "secretary fingers" which can be bought at an office supply place will be helpful in preventing this in the future (you may need multiple sizes for different fingers).

I just completed round two now, which went a lot faster. I would estimate 4-6 hours for stripping, scissoring and clipping. However, I didn't take the jacket to the skin as I did the first time and I used blending shears on a couple of places where scissoring would not be allowed on a show coat.  He definitely does not look as perfectly put together as when our friend grooms him. But I think that this is a coat I can live with between professional groomings until we decide whether he will return to the show ring in the future.

I'll try to post more details on the grooming process here in the future but for now, will suggest that you consider contacting the SSCA to request their grooming materials as a place to start.

http://www.standardschnauzer.org/

Just look for the publications page and you will find several different resources for grooming.

Best wishes!

Suggested Supplies

Basic
1) Mane and Tail shampoo and conditioner
2) Pin brush (I have greyhound and like it alot but others may be less expensive)
3) metal comb (with 2 widths of teeth)
4) soft cat slicker brush (mine is from Safari and I LOVE it, very soft and super comfortable in my hand)

Intermediate
1) Grooming table with adjustable arm and grooming noose
2) Electric clippers (I have Andis Ultraedge and think that they work well but everybody has their favorites)
3) #10 clipper blade (usually comes with the clippers but others prefer the #8.5 clipper blade)
4) #40 clipper blade
5) can of clipper cool
6) jar of clipper cleaner
7) container of clipper oil (usually comes with the clippers)
8) 10 inch straight scissors (you can buy inexpensive scissor that work well enough for a pet from Amazon or Pet Edge)
9) 8-10 curved scissors
10) blending shears (worth investing some money in up front because they are more comfortable and last longer)
11) medium and fine stripping knives (I started with Classic knives)
12) grill stone
13) ear powder (or rosin which may be less expensive/easier to find)
14) hair drier (friends like Yellow Bird because the vents are on the sides and you can tuck the drier in a belt or apron for hands free operation but I am still using my personal travel dryer and it seems to work fine)
15) grooming jacket or grooming apron (might like to have a couple different choices for different activities

Advanced
1) additional stripping knives  
2) grooming bag
3) scissor case
4) clipper case
5) mat cutter
6) whitening shampoo (for Pepper salt coat) or color safe
shampoo (for black coats)
7) cholesterol and chalk (for pepper salt coat)
8) moose (for black coat)
9) small soft bristle brush (for driving chalk)
10) pan large enough to hold dog (when chalking)
                                                        11) small pan and sponge (for sponge bathing)
                                                           12) old towels